“Tromsø is the city that surprised me most in Norway. Located 350 km north of the Arctic Circle, you might expect an isolated end of the world. In reality, it is a vibrant university town with a surprising cultural life and breathtaking landscapes. Every time I go back, I understand why those who settle there never want to leave.”
— Ingrid
Why Tromsø?
Tromsø is the largest city in northern Norway and the unofficial capital of the Norwegian Arctic. Located on the island of Tromsøya and surrounded by snow-capped mountains and deep fjords, it offers a way of life that is absolutely unique in Europe. With its 77,000 inhabitants, it is a human-scale city that combines the energy of an international university centre with the magic of Arctic phenomena.
The city is known worldwide for its spectacular northern lights in winter and its midnight sun in summer. But beyond the natural spectacle, Tromsø is also a leading Arctic research hub, with the world's northernmost university (UiT) and numerous scientific institutes. It is a city where you live at the rhythm of nature, with an intensity found nowhere else.
Tromsø is also nicknamed the “Paris of the North” because of its surprisingly rich cultural and party scene for a city of this size and latitude. Bars, restaurants, music and film festivals: the city is full of surprises.
+ Pros
- Exceptional northern lights from September to March
- Midnight sun from mid-May to mid-July
- World-renowned Arctic research hub
- Grandiose nature within reach (mountains, fjords, islands)
- Dynamic, cosmopolitan university town
- Warm, supportive community
- Lower rents than Oslo and Bergen
- Exceptional outdoor activities (skiing, hiking, kayaking, whale watching)
- Cons
- Polar night from November to January (no sun for 2 months)
- Long, very cold winters (down to -15°C)
- Smaller and more specialised job market
- Geographically remote (no direct flights to the UK or US: you connect via Oslo)
- Limited shopping and cultural offering compared with big cities
- Only one international school
- Psychological adjustment needed for winter darkness
Tromsø lies at 69°N latitude, about 350 km north of the Arctic Circle. It is the third-largest city north of the Arctic Circle in the world, after Murmansk (Russia) and Norilsk (Russia). Despite its extreme position, the climate is softened by the Gulf Stream: it is much milder than in other cities at the same latitude.
Where to live in Tromsø?
Tromsø is a compact city whose centre is on the island of Tromsøya, connected to the mainland by the famous Tromsø Bridge and the undersea tunnel. The city also extends onto the mainland on the east side (Tromsdalen) and onto the island of Kvaløya to the west. Here are the main neighbourhoods to know:
Sentrum (City centre)
The heart of Tromsø on the island of Tromsøya. Shops, restaurants, bars, museums and the university within easy reach. A lively, practical neighbourhood, ideal for young professionals and students.
Tromsdalen
On the mainland, on the other side of the bridge. This is where the Arctic Cathedral and the departure point of the Fjellheisen cable car are located. Quiet residential neighbourhood with views of the city.
Kvaløysletta
On the island of Kvaløya, west of the centre. Family neighbourhood with detached houses, schools and green spaces. Direct access to the wild nature of Kvaløya.
Tomasjord
Residential neighbourhood in the south of the island, between the centre and the tunnel to the mainland. Quiet, well served by buses, with more affordable housing.
Stakkevollan
In the north of the island, close to the UiT university campus. Popular with students and young researchers. Student housing (Studentsamskipnaden) available.
If you arrive alone or as a couple, the city centre (Sentrum) is ideal: you can do everything on foot and enjoy the nightlife and restaurants. With a family, Kvaløysletta offers an exceptional setting with the nature of Kvaløya right next door. Be careful: the rental market in Tromsø is tight because of the student population. Start your search on Finn.no at least 2-3 months before you arrive, especially if you're aiming for an August move-in (start of the university year).
— IngridCost of living in Tromsø
Tromsø is cheaper than Oslo when it comes to housing, but some spending items are higher than you might expect. Food costs a little more than in the south because of the distance and the transport of goods. On the other hand, rents remain reasonable for Norway, and the city is compact enough that many residents do without a car.
| Expense | Single | Couple | Family (2 children) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Housing | 9,500 NOK | 12,500 NOK | 15,500 NOK |
| Food | 4,200 NOK | 6,500 NOK | 10,500 NOK |
| Transport | 700 NOK | 1,400 NOK | 1,400 NOK |
| Leisure | 2,500 NOK | 3,500 NOK | 4,500 NOK |
| Heating (winter supplement) | 800 NOK | 1,000 NOK | 1,200 NOK |
| Other | 1,800 NOK | 2,500 NOK | 3,500 NOK |
| TOTAL | ~19,500 NOK (~$2,070 / £1,540) |
~27,400 NOK (~$2,900 / £2,170) |
~36,600 NOK (~$3,880 / £2,900) |
The monthly Troms fylkestrafikk transport pass costs around 700 NOK and covers the whole city bus network. Many Tromsøværinger (people from Tromsø) walk or cycle even in winter. Heating is a major expense: electricity bills can double between summer and winter because of the low temperatures and the length of the nights.
Working in Tromsø
The job market in Tromsø is more specialised than in the big cities of the south. The city is above all a research and education hub, but fast-growing Arctic tourism and the healthcare sector also offer interesting opportunities. Speaking Norwegian is an even bigger asset here than in the rest of the country, because there are fewer international companies.
Sectors that are hiring
- Research and university (UiT): The Arctic University of Norway (UiT) is the city's largest employer with more than 3,500 employees. It regularly recruits researchers, lecturers and administrative staff in fields such as marine biology, polar science, medicine, space science and Sami languages.
- Arctic tourism: The sector is growing spectacularly. Northern lights tours, whale watching, dog sledding and ski touring attract thousands of visitors every year. Many companies recruit multilingual guides, logistics managers and digital marketing specialists.
- Fishing and aquaculture: Tromsø is a nerve centre of the fishing industry in northern Norway. Companies such as Lerøy Aurora and Nofima (food research institute) have major facilities in the region.
- Healthcare: The University Hospital of North Norway (UNN) is the main hospital centre of the High North and regularly recruits doctors, nurses and healthcare staff. European qualifications are recognised, but additional training in Norwegian is generally required.
- Space and observation technologies: Tromsø is home to the Andøya Space Centre and several space technology companies. NORSAR and other environmental monitoring bodies are also present.
Average salaries in Tromsø
| Job | Annual gross salary |
|---|---|
| Researcher / Senior lecturer (UiT) | 550,000 - 800,000 NOK |
| Hospital doctor | 700,000 - 1,100,000 NOK |
| Environmental / space engineer | 600,000 - 850,000 NOK |
| Arctic tour guide | 350,000 - 500,000 NOK |
| Hotel / catering staff | 330,000 - 430,000 NOK |
If you're considering Tromsø, first look at the open positions at UiT (jobbnorge.no) and at UNN hospital. These are the two biggest employers and they often recruit internationally. For tourism, the northern lights high season (October-March) and the summer season (June-August) create recruitment peaks. Also think about remote work: more and more Norwegians settle in Tromsø while working for Oslo-based companies.
— IngridSchools and nurseries
Tromsø has a good public school network, but the international offering is more limited than in the big cities of the south. Education is free in Norwegian public schools, from year 1 to year 13.
Primary and secondary schools
- Tromsø public schools: The municipality runs around twenty primary schools (barneskole) and several lower secondary schools (ungdomsskole). Children who don't speak Norwegian benefit from language adaptation classes (innføringsklasse) to help them integrate.
- Breivika ungdomsskole: One of the well-regarded lower secondary schools, located near the university campus, with a good welcome programme for international pupils.
- Upper secondary schools (Videregående): Tromsø has several public upper secondary schools, including Kongsbakken VGS and Tromsdalen VGS, offering general and vocational pathways.
- Tromsø International School: English-language IB school (Primary Years and Middle Years Programmes), in the UiT campus area. Like most international schools in Norway it is fee-paying with state support, so fees are usually far below UK or US private-school fees.
SFO (Skolefritidsordning)
SFO is the after-school care service for children in years 1 to 4 (ages 6-10). It is available before and after school hours, as well as during some school holidays. The monthly fee is around 2,500-3,200 NOK depending on the municipality and the number of hours chosen.
Nurseries (Barnehage)
Tromsø has many municipal and private nurseries (barnehager). The maximum fee is capped by the state (around 3,000 NOK per month). Registration is done online via the Tromsø kommune website, usually in March for a start in August. Places are in high demand: register as soon as possible.
If teaching in English matters to your family, Tromsø International School is the option to look at, though places are limited. Otherwise, English-speaking children keep up their English easily in a Norwegian school: it is taught from the first year and films and TV are shown in their original version. Tromsø's public schools have a very good reputation, and the welcome programmes for foreign children are well established. It is also the best way for your children to learn Norwegian quickly and make friends.
— IngridThings to do in Tromsø
Tromsø is an extraordinary playground for nature lovers and for out-of-the-ordinary experiences. Every season offers unique activities, and the city's cultural life is a pleasant surprise for a city of this size.
Unique Arctic experiences
- Northern lights: From September to March, Tromsø is one of the best places in the world to see the northern lights. You can see them right from the city, but excursions away from light pollution offer even more impressive displays.
- Midnight sun: From mid-May to mid-July, the sun never sets. The days are endless and the energy of the city is contagious. Midnight hikes, barbecues on the beach at 11 pm: it's an unforgettable experience.
- Whale watching: From November to January, humpback whales and orcas come to feed in the fjords near Tromsø. Boat trips let you watch them up close, an absolutely magical sight.
- Dog sledding and reindeer: Several companies offer dog sled or reindeer sled trips with the Sami, the indigenous people of northern Scandinavia.
Must-see sights
- Ishavskatedralen (Arctic Cathedral): The emblem of Tromsø, a spectacular modernist church in the shape of a triangle, with an immense stained-glass window that captures the Arctic light.
- Fjellheisen: The cable car that climbs to 421 metres above sea level for a panoramic view of the city, the mountains and the fjords. A must in any weather.
- Polaria: Arctic experience centre with an aquarium, exhibitions on the polar climate and bearded seals. Perfect for families.
- Polar Museum (Polarmuseet): Traces the history of Arctic exploration and seal hunting. Housed in a historic warehouse on the harbour.
- Arctic-Alpine Botanic Garden: The northernmost botanical garden in the world, with plants from the Arctic and mountains around the globe. Free and open all year round.
Outdoor activities
- Ski touring: Tromsø is considered Norway's ski touring capital. The surrounding mountains offer spectacular descents with views of the ocean.
- Hiking: From Fløya (views over the city) to Tromsdalstinden (1,238 m), the possibilities are endless. In summer, hikes under the midnight sun are a unique experience.
- Sea kayaking: Exploring the fjords by kayak, sometimes with sea eagles overhead, is a popular summer activity.
- Fishing: Sea fishing, salmon fishing in the surrounding rivers: northern Norway is a paradise for anglers.
Cultural life
- Tromsø International Film Festival (TIFF): Every January, during the polar night. One of Scandinavia's most renowned film festivals, with screenings in unusual venues.
- Nordlysfestivalen: Classical and contemporary music festival in January-February, when the northern lights illuminate the sky.
- Insomnia Festival: Electronic music festival in October, celebrating the last rays of sun before the polar night.
- Øya Tromsø: Northern version of Oslo's famous festival, with concerts and cultural events.
- Verdensteatret: Tromsø's oldest cinema, a charming venue for arthouse film lovers.
If you only do one thing in Tromsø, take the Fjellheisen cable car on a clear winter evening. The view of the illuminated city below, with the snow-capped mountains and perhaps a northern light dancing in the sky, is one of the most beautiful I've seen in Norway. And in summer, go up at midnight when the sun skims the horizon: it's simply unreal.
— IngridThe polar night challenge (Mørketid)
This is the subject that worries prospective expats in Tromsø most, and rightly so. From about 21 November to 21 January, the sun does not rise above the horizon. For two months, Tromsø lives in near-permanent darkness, with only a few hours of bluish twilight around midday in December.
The mørketid (literally “the dark time”) is a reality not to be underestimated. It affects mood, energy and daily rhythm. Some expats adapt to it easily, others find it extremely difficult. Here is how the people of Tromsø cope with this period:
Strategies for surviving the polar night
- Light therapy lamps: Essential. Most homes and offices in Tromsø have one. They simulate daylight and help regulate the circadian rhythm. Allow 500-1,500 NOK for a good model.
- Vitamin D: Almost all northern Norwegians take vitamin D supplements in winter. Talk to your doctor (fastlege) to determine the right dose.
- Physical activity: Keeping up a sports routine is crucial. Skiing, swimming pool, gym, hiking with a headlamp: the Tromsøværinger stay active even in the dark.
- Hyggelig attitude: Norwegians cultivate “kos” (comfort, warmth) during the mørketid. Candles lit everywhere, blankets, hot chocolate, evenings with friends: it is the season of Nordic cocooning.
- Outdoor outings: Even without the sun, the bluish light of the polar twilight and the reflections on the snow create a unique atmosphere. The northern lights are also a powerful antidote to gloom.
- Socialising: It is during the mørketid that social life in Tromsø is most intense. Festivals, concerts, nights out at restaurants: residents compensate for the darkness with impressive social energy.
I spent a full winter in Tromsø and the mørketid surprised me. The first two weeks are the hardest: you lose your sense of time and want to sleep all the time. But then you adapt. The Tromsøværinger taught me to “embrace the darkness” rather than fight it. And when the first northern lights appear in the black sky, you understand that the polar night has its magic too. My advice: invest in a good light therapy lamp BEFORE you arrive and plan regular social activities.
— IngridNovember-January: Polar night, 0 hours of direct sun. February: The sun returns, 4-6 hours of light. March-April: 10-16 hours of light, days lengthening quickly. May-July: Midnight sun, 24 hours of light. August-September: 14-20 hours of light. October: 6-10 hours of light, rapid twilight.
International & English-speaking community in Tromsø
The international community in Tromsø is small but steadily growing, driven in particular by researchers and PhD students from all over the world who come to work at UiT. Despite its modest size, it is remarkably close-knit and welcoming.
- Facebook groups: Search Facebook for “Expats in Tromsø”: a good starting point for asking questions and meeting other newcomers.
- University community: Each year UiT welcomes international researchers, PhD students and exchange students. UiT's international office and student organisations are a natural entry point, and English is widely used on campus.
- Language cafés and Meetup: The municipal library and the Red Cross run free language cafés (språkkafé), and Meetup.com groups are a good way to meet people with shared interests.
- Embassies: Most English-speaking countries (UK, US, Canada, Ireland) have their embassy in Oslo; check your government's travel site for consular services.
In Tromsø, the best way to fit in is to join a sports club or a local association. Ski touring, running (Tromsø Løpeklubb) or choir singing are excellent ways to meet Norwegians. The community is small enough that everybody knows everybody: that's a considerable advantage over big cities. Learn a few words of Norwegian and doors will open very quickly.
— IngridIn Tromsø even more than elsewhere in Norway, mastering Norwegian is essential. The city is less used to expats than Oslo or Bergen, and the Tromsøværinger are very proud of their local dialect (tromsødialekten). Even basic efforts will be hugely appreciated. UiT offers Norwegian courses for foreigners, and the municipal library runs free language cafés.
Questions about Tromsø?
Find my ideal city